This Episodes Questions:
Brians Questions:
What are the the most useful 3d prints for a woodworking shop.
I often print out small pattern templates and fixtures for hole placement. Even storage solutions for various tools etc… what are your top suggestions? Josh
Hi, let’s talk about working with laminated plywood.
I just picked up about 25 sheets of 3/4”x 22”x6’ birch plywood that has Formica laminated on both sides from the free pile of a high volume cabinet shop. I want to encourage everyone to find local cabinet or mill work shops in your area and drive by them often! I do on my commute to and from work.
What kind of design/construction considerations would you make when building cabinets with drawers for my garage using only this 3/4” plywood? It will be for my garage. I know it’s common to make drawers using thinner plywood but I’m not trying to spend money if I have to. how would you finish the edges? I’m going to make a blanket chest next, The laminate is a fancy textured walnut wood grain that actually looks pretty good. I currently don’t have a shop but have some hand tools and hand power tools like a router, circular saw with track, and a lot of imagination! With the help from your podcast I just recently purchased a biscuit jointer and a large (rather intimidating) 45 degree chamfer router bit. Haywood
Guys Questions:
Hi Guys, I’ve been listening to your podcast since the beginning and it’s by far the best. There’s not even a close second.
My question is: I want to make shop sawn veneer. I have a band saw with 11” cut capacity, grizzly 8” jointer, a dewalt 735 thickness planner with a Byrd Shelix helical cutter head, but I don’t have a drum sander. I would like to end up with 1/16” cherry veneer that is 10” wide, but I’m not sure about the process to make it. Would the thickness planer be too aggressive to remove the bandsaw marks or would I need to purchase a drum sander? Also, after cutting a piece of veneer from the stock, do I need to reflatten the stock before cutting another piece of veneer. In general, I guess what I’m asking is given the set of tools above, how would you go about making veneer? Mike
I am building a trestle table out of African Mahogany, more specifically
Khaya. I am using 8/4 for the top and 12/4 for the legs. It is going to live on a jalousy window sun room that is not climate controlled in the state of Florida. What finishes do you guys recommend to use to help preventwood movement or warping over time, or is that just going to happen. David
Huy’s Questions:
Hello Gents,
This is a bit of a long winded question regarding aftermarket sliders for the table saw and how to best use them.
I recently purchased an old Excalibur sliding table from my saw. This is an older model but from my understanding is almost identical to the current SawStop sliders, as SawStop took over the old Excalibur models (maybe this is incorrect or you have more insight?). I mounted the slider to the extension table on the left so I get the full size of the TS top and the slider fence is long enough to reach all the way to the blade. I figured that this way I get the best of both worlds, and I do have the space for it.
My purpose for the slider was to help break down sheet goods, manage angled cuts on larger pieces, and to help cut miters on larger case panels. I’ve made a few cases in the past with mitered corners and running a long case panel on the TS to cut the miters is a bit of a pain. I was hoping that the slider would simplify that process as it would allow the long panel to move over the table smoothly while held square to the blade.
Here is the kicker, the slider mounts on the left of the saw which is the direction that the blade tilts. In my mind, this creates a problem as I have to run the panel up-side-down, under the tilted blade, and the offcut would now be dropping on top of the blade where it will create a kickback situation.
In general, I wouldn’t run the piece “under” the blade when using a rip fence as it is trapped, but with the slider that’s not really true. Seems problematic for the offcut but gives more accuracy and control on an otherwise unwieldy piece and may be worth rolling the dice. I figure that with the slider I have plenty of space to stand out of the firing line when that offcut goes flying, but it is probably smarter to avoid the situation in the first place…. What are your thoughts? How are others handling miters with a slider? It seems most folks in North America have them mounted on the left, and most of the saws tilt to that side. Bojan
Hey guys I’ve been listening to lots of episodes of the podcast lately and find it very helpful me being a beginner.
This will be a long one but here is the situation, I’m not far from Indianapolis so a couple of you understand the weather. Earlier this year I cut down a couple of trees from a family property before it got demolished for development. Trees were run through a local saw mill and kiln dried for me. When I picked them up from the local guys I brought the stack back and put it in a barn on the family farm. The barn is generally shut up but it is not conditioned. I do all my wood working in my basement at home that is conditioned. I’m getting ready to buy a used 8” jointer to help me handle all these boards. I will not be carrying a large jointer into the basement to do the work it will be at the farm where the wood is stored.
Question is, with an unconditioned barn do you think it will be a problem to joint a few boards there, bring them back to the basement Woodshop and let them acclimate for a few weeks before proceeding to plane/cut up for projects? Would it be better to joint just a couple at a time as I’m going to need them or would jointing most of the boards and storing them unconditioned during the year and moving them to the Woodshop as needed be ok?
Thanks for the podcast and all the info you guys provide. I’ve learned multiple things from you guys already and hope to continue learning more. Drew
