Category: Uncategorized

Brians Questions:

I frequently work with dark wood, and need to mark the cuts. Do you have a recommendation for a white pencil or pen that is fine tipped? Thank you for the great show and your time to produce it. -George

What has been your favorite veneering project (or what project would you like to do with veneer) George

Guys Questions:

Hey guys, your recent talk about bandsaws made wonder if anyone is using anything cool for bandsaw infeed and out feed, im using roller stands and doing resaw cuts that are about 10’ long. I also was curious how you guys would go about making a cabinet over a toilet not require filler strips? Maybe a scribed face frame? Great podcast lately, i really enjoy it. Tyler

I’m making a bow front dresser and the bow will be made by gluing up 1/8th” bending play. The front of the drawers will be 1/16th” shop sawn cherry veneer. I’m planning on putting 1/32” backing veneer on the inside of the bow. To make up the bow i will have a couple glue ups. The first glue up will be the 1/8th” bending ply and the 1/32” backing veneer. For ease of use, I plan to use unibond one for this glue up. The second glue up for the front piece of 1/16” cherry veneer I plan to use Unibond 800 to ensure there is no wood movement later, since the height of some of the drawers will be 10”.

My questions are: is 1/32 backing veneer ok seeing the front piece of veneer is 1/16”? And second: is using Unibond 800 a bad idea because it will only be for the front piece of veneer. Mike

Huys Questions:

Hi, Love the show. I recently got into woodworking as part of my stress relief from my W2 job (ICU work) and have fallen in love with it. I have expanded my tool chest and have a makita track saw and recently noted there was a variable speed setting on it. What guide do you utilize to change that setting? I have had it on 6 since I got the saw and never even thought to change it. I did finally follow your advice and upgrade my blade with a CMT finish 36 tooth carbide blade and what a difference cutting through hardwoods.
Thanks, Viyeka

Anyway, i wanted to ask how you would go about cleaning mouse droppings on your wood.
The cdc (because of the hantavirus scare) suggests using bleach and then wiping but it seems harsh on raw wood stock. I don’t want the bleach to penetrate too deep. I was thinking of spraying with a soapy solution and then gently wiping it off all my wood.
What do you think? —vaibhav from chicago

Brians Questions:

Hi guys! Long time listener, first time question-asker! Thanks very much for the show. I’ve been listening for a few years now and love the no-nonsense, down to business approach of your show.
I am a hobby woodworker, but have begun to get a few paying projects, which have been really fun and rewarding. One of the things that has forced me to do, as opposed to things I make for fun, for myself, or for gifts, is to do more design and modeling up front. I’ve gotten proficient enough with Fusion 360 to be able to create a 3D model that I can use to visualize for myself or show a client, and have most of what I need to build.
What I’ve discovered about Fusion is that you can model a HUGE amount of detail. I’ve found that modeling detail down to the rabbits, dados and understanding and determing the detail of each joint to be very helpful. I recently built a few large cabinets out of plywood using rabbet and dado joinery. I did not go to the trouble of actually modeling each rabbit and dado. When I was buidling it, I wished I had. A while back I built a cabinet from plans and they modeled ever rabbit, dado, hole… and I found it to be very helpful. I was also thinking that modeling all that might take alot of time and not be worth the effort.
All of that is just an example for context. My question actually is, How much detail do you go into when you model/design your own pieces and what are some of the reasons you do the level of detail you do?
Thanks again for the great podcast an I’m excited to hear your answers! Jeff

I just got into a shop with power for more than lights for the first time in several years, and I dug out several routers that I couldnt say no to, even though I was exiled to hand tools at the time. Between those and the ones I had before, I’ve probably got a half-dozen of various sizes; enough, I think, to leave a couple in permanent setups. Just wondering, how many routers do you guys have, and how do to maximize their utility in your own work flows (with permanent setups, favorite jigs, etc)? Scott

Guys Questions:

Hello from Alabama,
I am in the planning stages of building a dispenser for boxed wine. I have some highly figured walnut that I would like to use for the side panels. However, the pieces I have are fairly thin.
I am considering using 1/4 inch plywood as a core between 2 pieces of the thin walnut for each panel to prevent warping in the future.
The plywood that I have on hand is currently somewhat warped itself.
My question is: If I use this plywood as a core and apply sufficient clamping pressure during the glue up, should this panel remain flat? Or would you use MDF or HDF instead?
Also, would you recommend any other glue rather than water resistant PVA?
Thank you all for doing the Podcast. Woodshop Life is the BEST woodworking podcast out there, and I appreciate each of you for taking time out of your busy schedules to provide this service to all of us. Juston (Wild Chicken Woodworks)

1) I just drove down to Mississippi and met an old friend for the first time (if he’s listening, he’ll know who he is) to buy a Vacupress and associated gear. In this stuff, there was a flitch if cherry veneer (it was curled like a plane shaving from wing rolled, but appears really smooth, as in not wrinkled) and several starter packs of 3 sq/ft of some exotics (specifically satinwood, zebrawood, and rosewood, if interested). I’m super excited to put my first pump to work and have grand aspirations of masterpieces with figured exotics, but in the meantime, I don’t know where to start. Do you guys have any recommendations? What were your first veneer projects? Scott

Huy’s Questions:

Hi guys, thanks for your responses to my drum/belt sanding and tenon cutting questions a few months back. Here’s a hopefully fun one to think about: what is a tool that is no longer made or is no longer “in style” that you either can’t imagine working without or wish you had acquired when it was more readily available? Why? I always love hearing and learning about those “forgotten” tools and techniques that at some previous time were a normal part of the craft. Thanks! Michael

Hello Gentlemen,
I am a hobbyist woodworker, with a small shop nestled in the corner of my 2 car garage. I’ve been using a DeWalt contractor table saw for the past 12 years, and have gotten good enough results with it that I’ve never bothered to upgrade to anything bigger.
However, the thing that bothers me most about this saw is the virtual lack of dust collection. Even though there’s a dust collection port on the back under the blade, most of the dust drops straight to the floor. And I’m sick and tired of having to shop vac my entire garage after making even just a couple quick cuts. I think it’s time to invest in something that can manage dust a bit better.
My question is: what brand/model of table saw would you recommend that is
(1) easily mobile
(2) doesn’t take up a large footprint, and
(3) has the best dust collection?
Because my shop is small, I do not have an actual dust collector. I’ve been using a 6.5 horsepower shop vac with a dust separator for all these years, and would prefer to stick with this setup for now if possible. Can you explain the pros and cons of using this setup with a table saw versus using an actual dust collector? If I need an actual dust collector to get the results I’m looking for with the new saw, what kind would you recommend to keep the cost and footprint low?
Oh, and hopefully the saw would be under $1500, but could possibly stretch to $2000 as long as all the requirements are met.
Thanks for your help, and thanks for providing the best woodworking podcast on the planet!
Best, Matt

Brians Questions:

Hello and greetings from Texas,
I’m an amateur woodworker who may have bitten off a little more than I could chew. I started building full closet cabinets for my walk-in master closet, and at this point I’m too far in to turn back, so I’m learning as I go.
All of the cabinet boxes are installed, and I’m now working on shelves and drawer fronts. My question is about face frames. I’ve seen a lot of people recommend assembling the full face frame first and then installing it as a unit, rather than attaching each rail and stile individually.
What are the real advantages of building and installing the face frame as one piece versus installing it piece by piece?
One complication in my situation is that my walls weren’t perfectly square when I started, and as a result some of my cabinets aren’t perfectly square either. I’m trying to figure out which approach will give me the best final result given those imperfections.
Thanks for taking the time to read this, and for all the knowledge you put out there—it’s been a huge help on this project.
Thank you,
Casey
Wood You Rather

1. The first question is about accuracy. What is your own degree of tolerance when it comes to measurements, without going crazy? I guess it depends on the project, but for example, when cutting panels to specific dimensions with a track saw, do you try to get the measurements down to the nearest 1/16th? nearest 1/32nd? 1/64th?
2. On a related note, the measuring marks on the ruler or parallel guides of course have a width themselves… Do you place your pencil or stop pointer just before the line/mark, in the middle of the line, or just after the line? Does it not matter as long as you’re consistent? I know this isn’t NASA, but I don’t want the project to ultimately look amateurish. Josh

Guys Questions:

First, thank you for answering my other questions.
Guy points out that Rubio Monocoat is made for wood floors when others talk about using it on wood furniture. Is there an actual disadvantage or problem with using Rubio on fine furniture when you want a finish that can withstand the abuse that a floor gets?
Thanks again for the great show!
George

3. Any advice for staining blotchy baltic birch plywood with Gel stain and tips for finishing with water-based urethane topcoat? I have heard so many different opinions, from putting a slip coat of mineral spirits, to using preconditioner, to applying gel stain directly on the wood, etc. Josh

Huys Questions:

I am working on a large kitchen cabinet project and have come across a few questions I thought would make good discussion. Project includes 16 base cabinets, 14 uppers, range hood and a couple of custom spice racks, open shelves etc. Upper will have 14″ upper uppers stacked on them with glass fronts. Lowers are almost entirely drawers. Carcasses are about done heading into face frames and drawers.
-Ripping down face frame lumber. When batching out large amounts of 1 1/2″ strips what is your preferred method. Table saw then sand? Table saw proud then plane? Table saw then drum sand? Will a bandsaw with ripping blade provide a nicer edge? Major concerns are efficiency and accuracy while avoiding saw marks that have to be hand sanded off.
-Ever use a shaper to add dado on 8′ strips of wood for drawer box parts? Wondering if there is a good way to setup the shaper with power feeder to run through all the strips then cut to length. Essentially making my own drawer blanks.
Any other thoughts or recommendations when batching out large cabinet projects.
Matt

I have the Grizzly benchtop oscillating edge and spindle sander that I believe a couple of you have mentioned owning currently or in the past. I’m working on some oak glue-ups that are using some odd angles that will be template routed later. The problem I’m having is that when I use the edge sander to dial in these pieces my edges are getting slightly rounded over and becoming convex. I’d love to have a large disk sander but this is what I’m working with and I can’t figure out if it’s a tension or pressure issue or the oscillation is causing it… any help is greatly appreciated! Keep up the great work! Shawn

Brians Questions:

I am getting ready to build a mission style entertainment center. This project will use what I’m told is arched pedestal legs which was used a lot by Gustav Stickley. I will be gluing up three 5 3/4″x 28″ quarter sawn white oak blanks to make the legs. I will then route the curve using a compression bit and template which I made using the Shaper Origin.
My question is what are some good methods to ensure there is a tight (almost invisible) line on the glue up of the blanks. The legs are going to be a major feature on this piece and I would hate for the lines to be visible. I’ve done glue ups for square legs before and have pretty good success although not perfect. I know grain match is a big deal but wanted to pick your guys brains on clamping methods, glue type and anything else you can suggest to ensure success.
Yours is the best podcast on the net.
Tom Young

I recently upgraded from a 9” ryobi bench top bandsaw to a craftsman 10” Floor standing. I’d like to build a mobile base for it. My question is, how tall should the table be? Should it be elbow high? Waste high? Higher ? Lower? For context, I’m mostly a hand tool guy and, although I have a dinky table saw, I don’t use it much, favoring the bandsaw. I’ll do some light resawing and other more detailed work with it. Thanks guys and Guy. Love the show.Jason

Guys Questions:

I am working on a large kitchen cabinet project and have come across a few questions I thought would make good discussion. Project includes 16 base cabinets, 14 uppers, range hood and a couple of custom spice racks, open shelves etc. Upper will have 14″ upper uppers stacked on them with glass fronts. Lowers are almost entirely drawers. Carcasses are about done heading into face frames and drawers.
-Drawer box preferences or use cases for solid wood vs plywood with edge banding. I am leaning towards plywood due to number I need (38), being simpler to use prefinished ply then mill down rough cut. But it seems like cheating…..Large Pots and pans drawers 3/4″ sides or 5/8″ sides?
-Drawer box construction when using overlay fronts. I do not have a dovetail jig. I may end up just pocket screwing them which is what I have done in the past but I wanted to add an upscale touch. I tried my domino with Sipo dominoes, pin nailed the box together first and then put two 5×30 dominoes in. To me the hole created was not that tight with the domino, didn’t look nice. I see some YouTube experts make it seem easy, any experience or thoughts? Also thought of using drawer lock bit on the new to me shaper I just picked up but no experience yet. (Grizzly 3hp) Thoughts or preferences?
Any other thoughts or recommendations when batching out large cabinet projects.
Matt

Hola Y’all,
I have been listening to y’all for a little over a year, and woodworking for two years. Best Podcast on the interwebs!
I was recently gifted a used Grizzly Go555 14″ 1HP. I have never owned a Bandsaw and I want to use it mainly for resawing. I was told it is working fine, but I prefer to “Trust, but Verify”. My questions are:

1. What tune-up/preventive maintenance should I do immediately?
2. What upgrades should I do for resawing hardwood?

Thanks so much!
Peace, Love, and Sawdust
Norris Sebastian
Grandad’s Workshop

Huy’s Questions:

Hey guys! I am a full-time journeyman carpenter and I work in the commercial sector around the Indianapolis area. Currently working at the new IU Health Hospital downtown. I’ve been doing carpentry professionally for nearly 9 years. Almost half of a year ago, I decided to purchase a 4×4 shapeoko 5 pro and got involved with learning about cnc. As friends and family found out about my new acquired skill, I’ve been asked to make various types of wood related projects-some requiring cnc and some that don’t. I have a decent amount of handheld power tools and jobsite tools I’ve acquired through the years. Thankfully those tools have helped me in completing non-cnc related projects but my problem is the lack of woodworking tools and equipment at my disposal. Many times I’ve turned down projects due to not having the right tools. Other times I’ve taken extra steps to complete tasks, but had I just had the right tool, it could’ve been a breeze. I want to have a nice wood shop in my barn eventually but not sure how to prioritize my wants and needs. Considering trading the cnc to instantly increase my wood shop tool budget and maybe revisiting it in the future. With a focus on increasing my wood working tools and building up my shop—What are some upgrades/ tool trades/ must-have-tools to kickstart my wood shop? What tools should I get rid of?
Tools at my current disposal/ 4×4 shapeoko 5 pro, a dw 8-1/4” table saw, dw 735 planer, dw 10” miter saw, Bosch random orbital sander, metabo belt sander , ridgid oscillating spindle sander, central machine drill press, various dw drills/ impacts/ saw zalls/ oscillator/ hammer drill/ jig saw/ circular saw etc.
Tools that could’ve made my life easier in the past- a jointer, band saw, track saw, drum sander, router table, etc
Thanks,
Holden
P.s. My dad and I carpool together during the work week and love listening to the podcast-we especially have come fond of Guy’s no bs, straightforward attitude. Keep up the good work!

Korey from Independence, KY again. I was thinking about getting radial arm saw to use exclusively for dados. I have never seen a radial arm saw in person. They can be found very cheaply on Facebook marketplace and space in not an issue for me. Do you think it would be worth it and can you use it to cut dados safely. What are some other good uses for a radial arm saw. Thank you and keep up the good work.
Korey

Brians Questions:

My sister and brother-in-law would like to recruit/hire me to install/build built-in bank of drawers and shelves for them for their new home. The only relatable experience I have with this type of woodworking is building a face frame cabinet and constructing some under the bed drawer storage, each of which I have done exactly one time. The remainder of my woodworking experience has involved making small knick-knacks such as cutting boards, boxes, etc.
Considering your experience with built-in shelving and closets, I was hoping you could lend me your expertise in regards to the following questions:

1. What’s the easiest way to go about coming up with accurate calculations for the amount of materials I’ll need? I might need a very dumbed down explanation.
2. How do you price projects like this? Do you estimate the time it will take and give the customer a set price, or do you use a time + materials structure? I want to help my sister do this for significantly less than she would pay someone else, but I also don’t want to be committing an undetermined amount of my time for free.
   Thanks in advance for all your help. Zach Owens

I have a question about Sawstops and the brake cartridge. I recently tripped my brake last night after changing from a Forest Woodworker blade to a Diable blade. Not sure why it happened. They are both 10″ blades. Any suggestions for how to prevent this from happening in the future? Mark

Guys Questions:

I’ve had this question in my mind for a few months now. How do I know when I’m qualified and ready to teach others how to woodwork? For context, I am a teacher by trade, and have only been woodworking for about 2 and a half years. I am single and have no family, so I do have a lot of time to myself. I primarily use hand tools though I occasionally break out my track saw for sheet goods. I don’t have any experience with power tools like a table saw, bandsaw, jointer, planer. My dovetails range from “functional-but-ugly” to “decent”, I can chop out mortises with chisels, I can joint my edges with my hand plane, and I can get my surfaces to be “flat enough”.
With all that said, is there a point where you know you can effectively teach others how to woodwork? Down the line, I wouldn’t mind being able to teach some hand tool woodworking classes. I do want to hold myself to a high standard and to be able to teach everyone proper technique without seriously hurting themselves. Thanks in advance for your input, Jose

1. Over the past a couple years I have gotten spoiled by building with a bunch of rift sawn white oak veneer, large slabs of walnut where I can cut parts out as I see fit. Now I can’t go back to flat sawn boards!! All I see is the glue line, cathedrals that don’t match, or kinda do and just a jumble of boards that just kinda go together. Am I doomed to only hunt for the straightest best grain board? How do you guys incorporate flat sawn (cathedrals) and other wildly grain boards into your work? Or are you only trying to select straight grain for table tops, and use flat sawn stuff for lesser seen parts? Jesse

Huys Questions:

My question is about moving my shop. My wife and I are moving from California to Washington – about 800 miles north of us. I’m going to upgrade from a 1 car garage shop to probably twice the space.
We’re going to hire professional movers but I’m wondering how to prepare and ship certain machines. The ones I think most about are the Sawstop, the Festool Kapex 120, the DeWalt 735 planer, and my Laguna 14″ bandsaw also with wheels.
The Sawstop has an extension table. Would you remove that or let the professional movers move the fully assembled saw? I would remove the blade and cartridge. How about the Kapex, planer, and Laguna bandsaw? Any special precautions or recommendations there?
For my planes and handsaws am thinking lots of bubble wrap and packed into boxes.
Would appreciate your thoughts. Thanks for the great show guys!
Ron Novato, CA

Hi guys, I am relatively new to the podcast so maybe it has been talked about before, but I had a question about Maloof inspired rocking chairs. Have any of you attempted making a chair with a Maloof inspired design? If so, did you use/purchase a pattern and do you have any recommendations? I have found several patterns out there, but some of them are a bit pricey and I don’t want to commit to a specific pattern without doing my research. I consider myself an intermediate woodworker and this would by far be the most difficult project I have attempted so any advise is appreciated. Zach