Author: woodshoplifepodcast

Brians Questions:

How do I take my woodworking skills to the next level, short of attending an expensive workshop? Up to this point most of what I’ve learned has been from either your podcast or YouTube videos (special thanks to Guy for all of his router table videos.) I have quite a few small projects under my belt, such as cutting boards, boxes, and a face frame cabinet. I’d like to move on to building small furniture pieces, but I don’t feel that I have the skills to figure out how to design or build something of that scale without some sort of tutorial.
I’m sure there are tons of videos on YouTube showing how to build coffee tables and the like, but I don’t want to just copy and replicate someone else’s design. Most of the videos I’ve come across have also been using pocket holes and big box store lumber, which isn’t really the direction I want to go. What I want to learn are the skills and techniques that go into building furniture so that I can put my own spin on them. If I tried to build a coffee table right now I’m sure it would just be a flat panel with square straight legs.
Thank you in advance for whatever suggestions and insights you are able to offer me. I appreciate all the time and effort you guys put into this show. I hope your projects are going well, and I hope that you’re doing even better.. Zach Owens

Throughout your time woodworking, have you ever hit a point where you lost your motivation for woodworking? If so, how did you reignite your passion and get back into it? Zach Owens

Guys Questions:

I appreciate the podcast and look forward to new episodes, keep up the great work.
Here is the background:
I have attached a picture of the front of my workshop. I have the Tablesaw/planer and jointer in a square with a poweratic 1 3/4 hp single stage dust collector with “turbo cone” separator:) servicing all three using a 10 foot flexible hose with magnetic couplers on the flexible hose and at individual machine ports. This makes aligning dust collection very quick. I am very satisfied with performance at planer and jointer. I still wear an apron and safety glasses when using the tablesaw because of the dust coming off the top of the blade. I have sealed the cabinet of the saw as much as possible. I have used an over blade collector by shark guard which captures most if not all of this dust, however, I remove this most of the time because it interferes with so many operations.
Here is the question:
Do you belive there would be a noticable improvement in dust collection,at the tablesaw in particular, by upgrading the dust collector to a product like an Oneida Dust Gorilla or Supercell? I would still like to use the flexible hoses vs. hard piping to support being able to reconfigure the shop in future. Every piece of equipment is readily movable.
Thanks, keep up the great podcast.
Dave@ Xcuse4tools Custom Woodwork

I’m a hobbyist furniture maker working in a home shop. I have several kiln-dried ash boards that have visible insect tracks and wormholes — no active infestation, just the character left behind. I’m building a benchtop seat from this material and I want to lean into that look instead of hiding it. What finishing approach would you recommend to best highlight and preserve the insect damage — things like filling the voids, stabilizing the soft areas, and choosing a topcoat — so it looks intentional and high-end rather than defective?
Thank you again for the content. Catching up on old shows though I cannot locate the older shows on Spotify! Have a great week.
Greg Wolf’s Den Homestead

Huys Questions:

Hi guys,
My house came with a work bench when I bought it. It’s nice and sturdy but the Masonite top had seen better days so I’m replacing it with a piece of 3/4″ plywood.
I just took the top off, and realized that the structure underneath the top isn’t totally flat, up to about a 1/8 inch dip in some places. (picture below for reference — it’s about this uneven for the full length).
I have a couple of questions:
1) How flat does this need to be? Will the plywood on top make these gaps irrelevant? I understand that a very flat top is important for assembly purposes, although I didn’t really notice a problem with the old top.
2) How would you go about flattening this? I have taken down a couple of high spots with my #4 bench plane, but doing the whole table would be quite an undertaking.
3) My plan is to nail the new top on, router the edges flush, and add a coat or two of Danish oil since I have a jug of that lying around. But I’m curious if any of you would do differently. Do any of you use benches with replaceable tops?
Thanks!
Max

My question is this. I own a high end furniture and cabinet shop and to provide quality I prefer to build my drawer boxes from solid wood (not the bottoms those are plywood). I box joint the corner joints, but my question is on wood expansion. 1st – when milling the sides to 5/8 thickness I sometimes end up with a 5″ wide board. Usually this would cause cupping but it seems like the corner joints locks everything in place. Would you build with wider boards or cut it into say 2-3″ strips and glue back together before milling? 2nd – a lot of drawers now a days can easily be 8-9″ deep and up to 14″ deep for some of the largest drawers I build. With this width the expansion and contraction of the drawer box concerns me, especially once you fix the drawer fronts. I mount drawer fronts with the standard 4 screws in each corner and haven’t had issues but I’m curious your thoughts. The drawers are finished with a few coats of water based conversion varnish. Thanks! Jared

Brian’s Questions:

Gentlemen,
I thoroughly enjoy your podcast, so thank you for all that you do. What is you opinion on dog holes in the workbench? If you use them, how? Include favorite accessories. Thank you again. Josh

What is the best way to accurately put dog holes in your workbench without buying a $300 one time template tool? Josh

Guy’s Questions:

Hi guys,

Thanks for the awesome podcast, I learn new things with every show and for that I am so appreciative!
I’m in the early stages of designing/building a dining table made from quarter sawn ash (just purchased a bunch of 4/4 lumber). I’ve designed the table based on a picture my wife showed me for inspiration.
It is a trestle style table in which the two uprights are 16” wide by 4” thick. The ‘feet’ or ‘bases’ will be 30” wide by 6” thick, while the ‘trestle tops’ which support the table top will be 34” wide by 6” thick. The thickness of these trestles concerns me both in how much they are going to weigh, and how much material they are going to require.
I’ve read about the strength of lock miter joints and am intrigued by the idea of glueing up a panel and essentially creating a hollow ‘box’ for the upright portion (boards would run vertically). I’ve read that these types of joints are very strong and I imagine they would be sufficient for this application (correct me if I’m wrong). I also like that they may give the appearance of using ultra thick 4” lumber.
My question is whether you believe there will be enough wood movement in these hollow uprights to cause concern, as they will be constrained by both the feet and tops of the trestles? I just don’t have enough anecdotal experience to have a good feel for how much movement is likely to occur. Are there any good “rule of thumbs” regarding how much movement is expected to occur? I know there are a million variable (humidity swing, plain sawn vs quarter sawn, species, etc.)
Thanks for your consideration and response to my question! Evan

Hi,
I recently upgraded my benchtop planer from a straight-knife Ridgid model to an Oliver 10045 with a helical head. I was excited by all the reviews raving about the ultra-smooth finish, but I’ve been disappointed. I’m getting noticeable scalloping from the inserts, even after removing them all, thoroughly cleaning the inserts and seats, and properly re-torquing them with a torque wrench. It’s still requiring way more sanding: starting with 80 grit (which takes forever to remove the scallops), then 120 grit (longer than with my old planer), before progressing normally. My old straight-knife Ridgid needed far less sanding overall.
From my research, this scalloping seems pretty normal with standard helical heads. I’ve heard one temporary workaround is to run boards through 2-3 extra passes at the final thickness setting, offsetting or skewing the board slightly each time to better overlap the cutter paths and reduce the scalloping (making sanding easier). I plan to try that soon.
I was saving for Grizzly helical-head jointer and planer upgrades, but now I’m worried about the same increased sanding time.
A few questions:
Is noticeable scalloping typical with most helical-head planers, including Grizzly and Oliver models?
I’ve read that the Silent-Power spiral cutterblock on the Hammer A3 series produces a much smoother surface with minimal ripple or scalloping, requiring far less sanding than standard helical heads. Is that your experience?
I’m now leaning toward a Hammer A3-31 combo machine down the road. I wanted separate jointer and planer for better workflow and time savings, but I can’t deal with doubling my sanding time. For those with 12″ combo machines like the A3-31, do you ever regret not going for a 16″ model (e.g., A3-41) for the extra width capacity? Thanks for any insights. You guys are my go-to for real-world tool advice! Jeffery Hiughes

Huy’s Questions:

Gentlemen,
First let me say how much I appreciate your podcast for it’s practical woodworking advice. I have a comment and question. The comment is in response to the podcast of yours that I listened to today regarding the future of reclaimed wood. I wonder if the future will include recycled wood products designed with the look, feel, and workability (or close) of natural wood? Just a thought. Anyway, here is my question: My workshop is an unheated 3rd bay of a garage. It is not insulated. I use a shop vac in conjunction with Home Depots dustopper for dust collection. Better than nothing but not perfect. The cold is a deterrent to want to work out there and am wondering about safe budget conscious heating options. What are the safety considerations to take into account (dust, fumes, other?) I have a Mr. Buddy Propane Heater that has some nice safety features but don’t know if it’s safe to use. Do you have any recommendations on how to safely heat up a workspace? Thank you. James Aydelotte (aid-a-lot)

Hello great podcasters, and fine woodworkers. 🙂 I am looking to replace the “Deluxe” fence on my 18″ Jet bandsaw, since it is not parallel to the blade but is to the table, isn’t adjustable, and will no longer clamp tightly to the rail. Do you have a recommendation for a replacement bandsaw fence that makes it easy to resaw and cut small pieces. Also, I am looking for one that is adjustable to ensure it is parallel to the blade. One under $200 would be ideal. Thank you, gentlemen! George

This Episodes Questions:

Brians Questions:

Since my work typically uses traditional joinery, I cut a lot of tenons. I’ve tried all kinds of methods, but I am really looking for that one method that works for all size boards (cutting bedrail tenons on the table saw isn’t going to happen) and is quick to setup – something that corresponds to the ease and simplicity of cutting mortises using my floor standing mortiser: using your layout lines on the workpiece, you walk up to the machine and start cutting. Easy. For that reason, I really gravitate to the idea of using a radial arm saw with a dado stack for tenons. Norm makes it look so simple: with layout lines already on the board, simply set it against the fence and set your depth of cut, and zip zip, flip, zip, and done (insert Guy’s sound effects for simple operations here). No clamps (unless it’s a small piece), no moving long unwieldy parts across a table, no complicated jigs. And best of all, you see the layout line while you make the cut – it’s not upside down as in a table saw or router table. It looks so simple, and easily a one-size fits all if you have the floorspace for a dedicated machine.
But I know radial arm saws have fallen out of favor. I hear about the danger of the saw “walking” toward the operator (can’t you just stand to the side? It can only go so far, right?), and perhaps even more vexing, they are really only available used – and I don’t have time to tinker with vintage machines, as fun as that’d be in retirement one day. I’ve heard that the ubiquitous Craftsman machines on FB Marketplace and Craigslist have a lot of deflection and the bearings and tracks the saw rides in usually didn’t wear well with age, and that the real old DeWalt’s are the best. But again, I’m hesitant to buy something that old without having the time or knowledge to refurbish it. But maybe a week unpaid to refurbish one is worth the long-term labor savings I’d get?
An alternative I’ve imagined is a router fixture (possibly even as a stand-alone table), where the router rides along a fixed fence and atop a flat reference surface, and where the workpiece is placed under that surface. Using the same router, bit and fence setup every time, I’d have reference marks on the fixture that help align the workpiece’s layout marks for consistent results. I’d walk up, insert the workpiece, align it and clamp it, set my router depth and route the shoulder of one face and then the edge facing me (yes, the router has to be held horizontal for this edge), and then route the additional meat left at the end of the tenon (if any) – then pull the piece out, flip it, align it, readjust depth if needed and route the other face and edge. The idea is to mimic the action and simplicity of the radial arm saw as close as possible, where the cutting tool is what moves rather than the workpiece, and the workpiece is quickly and easily aligned using its layout marks without complicated one-off jigs.
My questions: Is using a radial arm saw for this task as wonderful as it looks? Is it worth the time likely needed to get one reliably working? Given the safety concerns I hear, as well as the commitment required of an old machine, which of the two alternatives above would you go with? Again, with the amount of tenons but of varying kind I do, I want something easy and simple and consistent from project to project – just walk up to the machine and, referencing layout marks on the piece, start cutting.
Thanks! Michael

Do you guys use anything in your shop that is not intended or marketed for wood workers? Right now my favorite is a fabric cutting mat, i used it once to measure the angle and length of a step stool and it has lived on my MFT ever since, it covers the holes nicely and it’s pretty satisfying bringing small pieces of wood to the mat to confirm measurements.
Thanks you for a great show, Heywood

Guys Questions:

I have been driving more than usual for work and find myself listening to several episodes throughout the day. Thank you all for making my abnormal seat time enjoyable!
I am contemplating purchasing a sliding table for my Harvey Cabinet saw, specifically the Harvey Compass ST-1500.
Do any of you have any experience or insight with these types of “add-on’s” versus a dedicated machine? Would this be a valuable tool for breaking down sheet goods to final dimensions instead of a track saw? I have used a track-saw in the past and do see how valuable it is, but for my situation, I would prefer to manuver large sheets through the table saw.
Thank you, Nick Halverson

Hi guys I have listened to all your podcasts and thank you for all the great material. I have a couple of questions about a walnut desk I am making for my wife. I was wondering what is a good wood choice for the drawer sides? And can I use that wood on all four sides with dovetails and then glue a piece of walnut on the front so it appears as a half blind dovetail and if so how thick can that front piece of walnut be? Thank you enjoy the podcast while driving tractor on the farm. Paul

Huys Questions:

I am a new woodworker and have built a few furniture pieces. I’ve been hooked into your podcasts. I always have you on on my commute. I’ve learnt a ton from all three of you. Keep up the great work.
My wife has asked me to build a coffee table inspired from the following:
https://www.potterybarn.ca/products/palisades-wood-coffee-table/?subGroupId=palisades-wood-coffee-table-SPAF-color-remainder&group=1&sku=706535
I’m building it from white ash. The top and shelf are 3/4 stock and the legs are laminated from 1 3/4 inch board. I have the legs and the panels already done. I’m going to build up the edges with the extra length that I already cut from both end grain and side grains of the panels (I have 8 matching strips one for each side)
As you can see from the link above this table has no aprons and the panels are attached directly to the legs while being enclosed by the legs fully. Even the top is enclosed and the legs end grain would show. Here are my questions:
1) I plan to glue the panels on one axis to one side of the legs( let’s call it north south axis) and the other axis is all going to be hardware that allows for wood movement. The idea is that since nothing but the glued panels restrict the legs the expansion/contraction of the panels would just transfer to the legs and they can move with it. How crazy am I? I spent days debating this with ChatGPT. Am I misunderstanding how it will work?
2) I’m now in the step of cutting square 5×5 in notches in each corner of both panels. But I’m very concerned about accuracy. It feels like this setup is not very forgiving. For example if I make the smallest errors on the top and bottom of the same leg it may throw off the whole table where I might have gaps between the leg and panel later. I also have no band saw or a jigsaw. I want to tackle this with a track saw ( also have a table saw but this table is 42×42 and my sawstop jobsite isn’t good to handle this size).
Many thanks! Amin

Hey guys, love the show, I’ve been meaning to send this question this question in for 3-4 years but I’m always listening in the car and forget by the time I get to my computer. So, a few years ago I moved and added a bandsaw to my shop so I could start resawing lumber and my first project to incorporate that was a humidor. The resawing went great, but my table saw was out of alignment, so the mitered corners on the box looked terrible with gaps on the outside corners. To fix that I decided to add a contrasting strip along all the edges. The carcass is birdseye maple and I added padauk by routing out a 3/32″ square on all outside corners, added 1/8″ strips of the padauk and then trimmed it flush. This looks great, but with one issue. The 4 vertical corners are all cross grain between the carcass and the corner banding, so seasonally while the box sides move, the banding doesn’t change length, so it either protrudes or retracts a bit (maybe 1/32″) from the top and bottom. This is only a cosmetic issue on this box but I was wondering how I could plan for this in the future, as I could see a situation where all the movement is at the lid side and prevents it from fully closing which could compromise the seal on a humidor.
Some of my thoughts were only gluing the middle portion of the banding down, only doing this when the carcass is a veneer over a more stable substrate, or sucking it up and getting better at mitered box corners and not needing this at all.
I have some pictures from this build at https://imgur.com/a/humidor-build-iaXKQLI Jonathan

This Episodes Questions:

Brians Questions:
Have been listening to your podcast for awhile now and the more I listen to more questions come to mind. Here is my current one for a walnut waterfall bench I’m working on. The dimensions are approx 58”L x 18”W x 16”D. How should I join a shelf to this bench where the grain flows continuously from the legs up through the bench top? The shelf will also be a glued up panel with the grain running the same direction as the bench top. If I attach the shelf to the inside faces of the legs using a mortise and tenon joint, do I need to account for wood movement? The legs, benchtop, and shelf are all 1.75” thick. I would assume that given they’re all the same thickness and technically the wood grain is in the same direction as the legs, just perpendicular, it would expand and contract together, and I could just glue the tenon. That said I don’t want to guess and hearing Guy talk about furniture exploding has me concerned. If wood movement is a concern then what’s the correct way to account for this movement? Should it be treated like a breadboard end with dowels through the tenons, installed through the bottom of the legs (the shelf sits 2 inches off the ground)? Or would it be better, and stronger, to use floating tenons/Dominos for this joint instead and just not glue the outside dominos and cut them loose to account for the expansion and contraction while gluing the center domino(s)?
Thanks, Chayse Bell

Thanks for the great podcast, I discovered your channel about a month ago and now listen all the time traveling to and from work. I’ve been woodworking a little over a year now and currently working on a dining table made from ash and have picked up all sorts of pearls that have helped with the glue up, apron design, finishing, etc., so thank you for all that.

This question is directed to Brian, as he has mentioned that his shop is in his basement. I currently work out of my two car garage that I share with my wife’s car. We just built the house in 2024 and I’m kicking myself that I didn’t insulate the garage. These cold Northern Indiana days are making working in the garage pretty uncomfortable. I know I could just insulate it, but HVAC isn’t attached to the garage either so to make it truly comfortable would be a big job/cost. So, Brian, can you share a little more about the layout/design of your basement shop? E.g. was it a room that existed that you converted into the shop or you framed the room specifically for a shop? How do you take extra precautions to make sure your family isn’t affected by dust, as this is my primary concern. Obviously, I know of dust collection and dust filters, but it still concerns me to think I’d be working in the basement. Do you have anything you wish you did differently? We have an unfinished basement that is very open, so the sky would be the limit for me in the future before we finish it.
Thanks, Evan

Guys Questions:

Somewhat recently I made a gift for my wife using White oak. I had predetermined that for a finishing schedule I wanted to first apply Danish oil, then seal it with shellac, and minwax performance series varnish for a top coat.

I ran into an issue when I began to finish the piece. Not knowing a thing about wood porosity, I liberally applied watco Danish oil, and as a result I had a big problem with seepage. Now, my research had cautioned me that I would need to keep checking on the piece periodically for the next several hours after application to wipe up any seepage that came up. Even so, you this went on for so long that it became an issue. Two full days after application I was still wiping up seepage. I would wipe the piece down before bed at night, and when I’d check it in the morning there would be spots on the surface that took a considerable amount of effort to buff out. I couldn’t keep up with it, and after a few days the surface was covered in spots, which meant that I had to start over.

As I mentioned previously, I could not find any information online regarding how to deal with this problem. Just to see what would happen, I decided to try aiming a heat gun at the work piece after it had been drying for a couple of hours. This worked phenomenally, and I could not have been more thrilled. Of course the heat didn’t dry out the wood any faster or anything, but what it did do was vastly accelerate the seepage process. The oil was rapidly drawn up to the surface of the wood, where I could wipe it away, and after treating both sides in this manner for a total of perhaps 10 minutes it seemed that all of the excess oil had been drawn out. I wiped the work piece down and had no more issues.

Of, like with any application involving a heat gun, I had to keep it moving, otherwise it would start to bake the spots of oil onto the surface. Anyways, I just thought this was a neat trick that might come in handy with oil finishes if seepage is ever a huge issue. I hope you guys found this interesting. Zach Owens

Hello from Chico, California!
I have recently started listening to y’all’s podcast while researching inspiration for reconfiguring and refining my workspace. I thank Guy for highlighting the importance of drawers, I realized that I previously had none.
I am a hobbyist woodworker looking for advice on air filtration for my two car garage shop. It is approximately 3960 cubic feet, 22′ x 20′ x 9′. While working, the garage door and access door (detached garage with no climate control) is usually open, weather permitting, and tend to have good airflow and supplement with a box fan when needed. I have a Harbor Freight 2hp Dust Collector for my machines, cabinet saw, planer, jointer, and router table and do feel that this my be slighty under powered for my system.
I do notice a fair amount of fine dust suspended in the air after milling operations and breaking down sheet goods on the table saw and a noteable layer of dust across the entire shop. I think that adding an air filter could help reduce fine particulate and could potentially allow me to work with doors shut when it is too hot or too cold.
Do you think that adding an air filter makes a significant addition to air quality or should I look further into optimizing dust collection?
If you feel an air filter is a worthwhile addition, what would you reccomend for an approximately 4,000 cubic foot shop? I have been looking at the WEN 3410 unit due to claimed CFM and cost. I have also contemplated building one with a second hand blower from an old furnace. I am mechanically inclined and competent with electrical. I also feel that timers and variable speeds are not needed.
I would also add that whatever I decide, the garage is detached from the main house and there is a studio above that is rented out to a seperate individual and would like noise and resonance to be kept to a minimum. The only real estate I have available for air filtration is the ceiling.
Thank you for your time. Nick Halverson

Huys Questions:

Longtime listener. Truly enjoy the podcast. I am considering upgrading my table saw to a contractor or cabinet model. The choice are really overwhelming. I get a lot of advice on different brands, phase of motor and should I buy new or used. Any advice appreciated. Greg

I recently bought a small bandsaw mill (Woodmizer LX30) and am becoming an amateur sawyer, exclusively to supply lumber for my own projects. Once I have dried lumber to an acceptable moisture content, what is the best way to store a few thousand board feet? My kiln guy says I should store packs of dead-stacked lumber horizontally, wrapped in 6-mil plastic. That sounds like a pain. I’d prefer to forgo the plastic and store the lumber horizontally, on edge, in a rack, in my unheated pole barn – which, I should note, sometimes gets a wet floor in heavy rains. Then I’d bring pieces into my shop for a few days to acclimate before machining. What do you recommend for long-term lumber storage? Kyle

This Episodes Questions:

Brians Questions:

Just a question to ponder about the future of our favorite material. As old buildings get torn down there seems to a great supply of reclaimed lumber for our current generation. But as we know this is a finite resource. So with that said will the next generation be turning to our generation’s slab furniture for their reclaimed lumber? Doug

Hey!
Sorry if this has already been addressed in a previous episode.
I’m in upstate NY, and I have a full wood shop detached from my house.
The woodshop is insulated, but the temperature changes outside are pretty much the max, 100 degrees in the summer, and it will live at 20 degrees in the winter.
In the winter, should I keep materials I’m working on in my house, bring them out to the shop when I’m cutting, and then bring them back in? It seems excessive, but it’s really huge temperature changes.
I’m mostly dealing with walnut. Is the temperature the bigger issue, or is it really humidity?
I could maybe install a heat pump, just yah know it’s a lot of energy.
If I went that route, do you have a recommendation for a temp I should keep materials at?
Thanks again for making such a great show
-Mohamed

Guys Questions:

Hello and thank you for the wonderful podcast.
I was hoping for some insights on builds for high moisture environments. My fiancé and I just moved into our first house and need to update the bathroom vanity. Rather than spend hundreds of dollars on a a shoddy big-box-store model, I would like to take a crack at building one myself.
I have enough experience with woodworking and building cabinets that I feel confident with the actual construction, but am concerned about the high moisture environment.
I plan on making a carcass out of prefinished plywood with face frames and drawer fronts out of a yet-to-be-determined species (likely red oak).
What advice and considerations do you all have for these high moisture environments? Do I need to use special finishes or some sort of sealant for the hardwood components? Do I need to worry about sealing or finishing the edges of the plywood even though the faces are prefinished? Do I need any special considerations for moisture or even mold build up between the face frame and plywood carcass?
Any and all advice on this is greatly appreciated
Thanks as always! Andrew

Hey Guys,
I love your show. Hearing 3 sets of opinions with different levels of experience really helps me learn.
I’ve heard so many different approaches to sanding that I’m coming to the experts for guidance. To what grit do you sand to for Oak, Walnut, Maple, and cherry.
Do you think a planned or card scraped surface is better than a sanded surface? Does it take the finish just as well?
Thanks for all you do! Ezra

Huys Questions:

Another question… I recently had a small tornado that took the roof off of my shop. As a result, all of my tools got wet and the power tools – table saw, jointer, band saw, drill press etc – all got wet and rusted. They’ve been in storage since March of this year. I have new shop being built and hope to have it done by the end of this month. What suggestions do y’all have in terms of getting the rust off of the tools and checking for any other possible water damage? Thanks. Ron Brewer

I’m making a walnut bench that I want to route headboard sides (legs) on and I’m not sure how to go about it. I’m not sure if a straight edge/track with a router and at pointed round over bit would be the best route or if I should do it on the router table. I plan on using a 3/8” or 1/2” radius point cutting round over bit for the beading. The end two end panels are 16”x18” and 1.5” thick. I have a festool 1400 router and an Incra router table as possible options. Also, once I get these panels made what’s the best way to sand the beads since they come down to a tight point in the middle. Sanding seems like it would be a huge pain and not sure if the router bit would leave a good enough finish to apply finish without prep work.
Thanks, Chayse